Vegetables You Should Know: Sorrel Noodle Kugel

A while back ago, I shared with you the first of my go-to sorrel recipes. Now I’m back with the second (and, thus far, only other): sorrel noodle kugel. This is kind of at the other end of the spectrum from that sorrel hummus, but it’s equally delicious in its own way. Where the hummus is refreshing, this kugel is rich and decadent; where the hummus is quick, this—like any kugel worth its salt—takes a bit of time to prepare. The hummus is pareve and vegan; sorrel kugel is unapologetically dairy.

Last time I told you about my personal history with sorrel, so here’s a bit about the culinary background of this elusive green—and its place in the Jewish foodie pantheon. Sorrel is a tart-tasting green, kind of like a lemony-spinach, and it’s a member of the buckwheat and rhubarb family (no wonder I like it so much!). The tart taste is due to the presence of oxalic acid (which can be lethal in large quantities—it’s what makes rhubarb leaves poisonous).

The word “sorrel” is derived from the Old French for “sour.” The plant is also known as sour grass; it’s szczaw in Polish and schav in Yiddish—somewhat confusingly, the same word refers to both the plant and the soup most commonly associated with it in Ashkenazi cuisine.

In Europe, sorrel was almost always picked wild; wild sorrel has a stronger flavor than cultivated. Sorrel is most commonly used in soups and sauces, although the young leaves are sometimes used raw in salads.

Sorrel comes into season in early spring (making it a common ingredient in Ashkenazi Passover and Shavuot meals) and grows through the end of summer. Unfortunately, it’s never really gained traction in this country, and it’s proven frustratingly difficult to find even in NYC. I’ve only ever seen it at a couple of greenmarkets and a Russian shop in Queens. But if you happen to see some, give it a try! Or, if you grow your own veggies, I hear it’s an easy one to get going.

The recipe below is slightly adapted from Jayne Cohen’s Jewish Holiday Cooking, which is full of inventive twists on classic dishes and ingredients like this one. I’ve lightened up and streamlined my version a bit, but it’s still super creamy and delicious. I highly recommend adding the optional Parmesan at the end, preferably in generous quantity. For my money, the brown, crispy cheesy crust that forms on the top of the kugel is the best part of all.

Sorrel Noodle Kugel

2 tablespoons butter or olive oil

2 large onions, thinly sliced

1 tsp salt

4 cups  / 6–8 oz. roughly chopped sorrel, stems removed

½ cup plain yogurt

8 oz. wide flat egg noodles or farfalle

4 oz. cream cheese, softened

1 cup plain yogurt

3 large eggs

Black pepper

Grated Parmesan, to taste (optional)

In a large nonreactive heavy skillet, melt the butter or heat the oil. Add the onions, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt, and cook, covered, over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are translucent, about 25 minutes. Remove the lid, turn the heat up to high, and sauté until the onions are a rich gold, about 10 minutes.

Add the sorrel, a little at a time, and cook, stirring, until completely melted, about 5 minutes. Stir in the ½ cup yogurt, lower the heat, and simmer until well incorporated.

Preheat oven to 350ºF.

Cook noodles according to instructions on package, cooking just until al dente. Drain

In a large bowl, whisk together the cream cheese, cup of yogurt, and eggs until smooth. Add the sorrel mixture and cooked noodles and combine well. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Grease a shallow 9” x 13” baking dish. Spoon in the sorrel mixture and smooth the top. Sprinkle evenly with Parmesan, if using.

Bake for about 1 hour, or until firm and golden brown on top. Remove from oven and let rest at least 20 minutes before serving. Serve warm.

Sources: Encyclopedia of Jewish Food (Gil Marks, 2010); Jewish Holiday Cooking: A Food Lover’s Treasury of Classics and Improvisations (Jayne Cohen, 2008)

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