Lazy Latkes: The Poppy and Prune Guide
November 26, 2018
Hanukkah is one week away! But let’s say you’re not in the mood to lovingly recreate three historic latke varieties from scratch this year—what’s a Jewish foodie to do?
Don’t worry. I got you. The fact that I did lovingly recreate three historical latke varieties last week notwithstanding, I’m actually a pretty lazy cook myself most of the time. Most years, the only latkes I eat come from a box in the freezer section of Trader Joe’s. So I’m pretty familiar with the low-energy latke scene.
And so, I bring you the fruits of my non-labor: a field guide to lazy latkes. Three low-effort ways to get your latke on this year, from least to most lazy.
1. Boxed Mix
Arguably the least lazy of the lazy latkes, but still pretty lazy. All you’ve got to do is add an egg and some water to the mix and give it a few minutes in a pan with some oil—you know, follow the instructions on the box.
I confess I haven’t taste-tested the full range of dehydrated latke mixes on offer—I’m pretty loyal to Streit’s potato pancake mix. I wish it were a little less salty, but there’s something very homey and satisfying about the mashed potato taste of these. Does it in any way compare to fresh? Of course not. Does it even qualify as a latke? I mean, we learned last week that just about anything shaped like a pancake and fried in oil can be a latke, so…
According to Gil Marks, packaged dehydrated potato pancake mixes first appeared in the 1950s, and they quickly caught on with restaurants “and some grandmothers, to replace hand peeling and grating.” See? Even bubbes love a lazy latke.
2. Frozen
Gil Marks writes that once frozen latkes were introduced to the market, dehydrated boxed mixes fell out of favor. And you can sort of see why—these are much closer to fresh. For one thing, they’re actually made out of grated potatoes, so they don’t have that mashed potato thing going on (which, love it or hate it, is admittedly pretty different from what most of us associate with a potato latke (though the earliest Hanukkah potato pancakes, made by German Jews, were made with mashed potato just as often as they were with shredded). They’re golden and crispy, like a latke should be. They may be lacking that special je ne sais quoi that only a truly great fresh homemade latke has, but considering how much time and energy you’re saving—all you have to do is pop these babies in the oven for a while and set a timer, or if you’re feeling really ambitious you can pan-sauté them for a couple minutes for maximum authenticity—do you really care?
I’m partial to Trader Joe’s Potato Pancakes myself. This year, to mix things up, I decided to give their new Cauliflower Pancakes a try. With a dominant Parmesan flavor, they’re decidedly non-traditional (Latkes After Potato?), but very tasty.
3. Go Out
Okay, so this is the laziest of the lazy latkes: the kind you order at a restaurant. Thankfully, in NYC we are #blessed with many fine latke eateries. I’m kind of obsessed with the mammoth potato pancakes at Fine and Schapiro on the Upper West Side (though be warned they are more like glistening UFOs of potato kugel than they are like a usual latke); Second Avenue Deli is also a solid option. Most any Jewish deli (not that we have so many left, sigh) in these parts should have at least a decent rendition.
If you do not live in the midst of a bustling latke metropolis, this may not in fact be the laziest latke for you, in which case I send my condolences. If that’s your situation, try option 1 or 2.
So, friends, let’s talk lazy latkes in the comments? Are you a fan, or do you think anything not made fresh from scratch isn’t worth eating? Do you have a favorite mix or frozen brand? A favorite latke eatery? Let me know in the comments!
Sources: Encyclopedia of Jewish Food (Gil Marks, 2010)
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